Hair
Formula breakdown: what each ingredient actually does
6 September 2026
We publish full formulas and explain them ingredient by ingredient. If something cannot be explained, it should not be there.
SHAMPOO
Cleansing system
| Ingredient | Function |
|---|---|
| Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate | Isethionate — mild anionic surfactant, dense creamy foam, well tolerated by a sensitive scalp |
| Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate | Taurate — resistant to calcium ions, so it keeps working in hard water |
| Lauryl Glucoside | Glucoside — non-ionic surfactant from plant feedstocks, lowers the irritancy of the whole system |
| Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate | Polyglyceryl esters — a mild micellar system that keeps soils in suspension and softens the cleanse |
Three surfactant classes instead of one strong detergent. Blends irritate less at comparable cleansing power.
Protection against hard water
| Ingredient | Function |
|---|---|
| Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate | Biodegradable chelator — binds Ca²⁺, Mg²⁺, Fe³⁺ and Cu²⁺ before they form deposit on the hair |
Fibre and scalp care
| Ingredient | Function |
|---|---|
| Hydroxypropyl Gluconamide | Enters the cortex and forms hydrogen and ionic bonds that help strengthen the fibre |
| Inulin | Prebiotic supporting the scalp microbiome, humectant, reduces friction |
| Glycerin | Humectant, binds water |
| Propanediol | Plant-derived solvent, hydrates, helps ingredients spread |
Texture
| Ingredient | Function |
|---|---|
| Xanthan Gum | Natural polysaccharide thickener |
| Hydroxyethylcellulose | Cellulose thickener, improves slip on application |
No sodium chloride as a thickener — salt in hard water further loads the formula’s ionic system.
What is not here: sulphates (SLS, SLES), silicones, synthetic dyes, PEGs, EDTA.
CONDITIONER
Base
| Ingredient | Function |
|---|---|
| Aqua (Sulphur Water) | Sulphur water instead of ordinary demineralised water. Sulphur is traditionally used in balneology for seborrhoeic skin care |
| Glycerin, Propanediol | Humectants |
Conditioning system
| Ingredient | Function |
|---|---|
| Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine | Rapeseed-oil amidoamine. It activates on contact with citric acid and becomes cationic — it adheres to negatively charged hair. A plant alternative to classic quaternary ammonium compounds, without build-up |
| Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol | Fatty alcohols — build the cream’s lamellar structure and give slip. These are not drying alcohols |
| Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil | Safflower oil — light, rich in linoleic acid, does not weigh hair down |
| Shea Butter Ethyl Esters | Shea esters — the light fraction, softness without the weight of butter |
Fibre support
| Ingredient | Function |
|---|---|
| Hydroxypropylgluconamide, Hydroxypropylammonium Gluconate | The Fiberhance pair — hydrogen and ionic bonds in the cortex |
Microbiome and calming
| Ingredient | Function |
|---|---|
| Lactobacillus Ferment | Postbiotic — lactic-acid bacteria metabolites |
| Inulin | Prebiotic — food for beneficial flora |
| Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract | Sage extract — astringent, traditionally used on seborrhoeic skin |
Prebiotic plus postbiotic in one formula is a synbiotic system.
pH and preservation
| Ingredient | Function |
|---|---|
| Citric Acid | Brings pH into the acidic range — helps close the cuticle and activates the amidoamine |
| Benzyl Alcohol, Benzoic Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid | A preservation system accepted in natural cosmetics. It works only below about pH 5.5 |
The last point is worth stressing: this preservative set requires acidic pH. If the conditioner were alkaline, it would not be microbiologically secure. Formula chemistry and hair physiology have to meet at the same point.
Parfum, Limonene, Linalool, Geraniol — fragrance. The last three are fragrance allergens that must be declared in the EU. They occur naturally in essential oils; we list them because the law requires it and because people with allergies need that information.